Different Types of Obi
The Many Different Types of Obi
There are many different types of obi in Japan, and the type used depends on the type of kimono worn on any given occasion. The most interesting fact for me about them is the fact that they are the most EXPENSIVE part of the whole kimono outfit! All the embroidery is by hand and the more brocading, the more formal is its usage and higher the cost.
What is an Obi? It is the sash worn around the middle of the kimono. It can also be seen as a decorative wall hanging or their fine material can be used to make different accessories. They range from 10 cm to 30 cm in width and can reach over 4 metres in length. Most formal are the metallic or colour brocade and tapestry followed by dyed silk, woven silk, and non-silk obi fabrics.
The most formal type of obi is the Maru, it was most popular during the Meiji and Taisho era. It is very rarely worn today due to the cost and it is also heavy to wear. It is mainly worn by the geisha and maiko's or it can be part of a bride's outfit. When a maiko wears a Maru obi, the symbol of her geisha house is visible on the bottom of the obi. Both sides are fully patterned and the patina of the gold thread resembles that of an antique tapestry. This classic obi measures 33 cm wide.
The Fukuro Obi is slightly less formal than the Maru Obi, but can still be used for formal occasions. It was created in the 1920s and is made from a fine brocade or tapestry, which is patterned along 60% of its length on one side. The back of it may be lined with plain silk or brocade making it less expensive and less bulky to wear than the Maru Obi. It pairs very nicely with the furisode kimono. (that of an unmarried woman) The length and width of the Fukuro Obi is the same as the Maru Obi. It can hardly be distinguished from the Maru when tied over the kimono.
The Nagoya Obi is the most convenient obi today, it was first produced in the city of Nagoya between 1912- 1926 at the end of the Taisho era. It is lighter and simpler than the Maru and Nagoya obi's. It is characterised by a portion of obi being pre-folded and stitched in half. The narrow part wraps around the waist, with the wider part forming the bow of the obi tie. It's tied with a single fold. It is never used for any ceremonies but is still very stunning. It is less expensive that a Maru or Fukuro Obi.
The Hanhaba Obi - "han" means half and "haba" means width, so the Hanhaba Obi is half the width of other obis. It is a casual obi for wear at home, under a kimono coat, with a summer Yukata or it can also be worn at a festival. It's worn in the Summer when it's hot. The fabric and design are simpler to reflect its use for daily wear. They are often made by a stencilling technique, rather than elaborate embroidery or weaving. Some are made from a former Maru Obi. They are 15 cm in width whereas a standard one is 30 cm.
The Black Obi, is often made with the finest silk woven with a barely discernable pattern or design. Sombre, yet lovely. A plain black kimono obi is worn as part of the mourning attire.
The White Obi is used for traditional wedding ceremonies where the bride will wear one. During the Edo era, a widow may also have dressed all in white to signify that she will not remarry.
The Tsukuri Obi is the easy obi, it helps older ladies dress easier. It's very popular for that reason, it's not considered a formal obi. Separate bows and knots can be purchased to avoid having to learn the tying technique.
The Nishijin Kim Obi - is a highly prized obi. The vast majority of obi in Japan today come from the district in Kyoto known as Nishijin. It has been the centre of Japanese textiles since the 15th Century and is renowned for its brocade, twill and gauze production. In the late 1800s jacquard loom was introduced to replace drawloom. The high-quality brocade was produced by Nishijin artisans known as " Nishiki" which means beautiful colour combinations. The Nishiki is characterised by the lavish use of gold and silver thread to make patterns of flowers, birds, and traditional geometric designs. Another style of kimono and obi production here is ' tsuzure or tapestry' both are the most ornate and expensive of all obis.
The different designs of the Obi
Zentu Gara Zen this means "all" tsu "through" gara "design" , patterns of zentsu gara are on the whole body
Rokutsu Gara are on 60 % of the obi and the main designs are arranged on one part which is wrapped around the waist and another part is tied on the back.
The Otaiko design - gara these main designs are arranged on the part that shows up at the front of the body and the part coming out at the back when girded.
